Category Archives: Before You Go…

Flying Ryanair Mid-Covid: my experience

With air bridges being announced, many of us are looking forward to a summer holiday abroad in the sun. Ryanair is my go-to budget airline so it’s unsurprising I ended up flying with them; however due to the lack of information available about flying currently, I wanted to share my experience in order to let others make an informed decision on whether or not to fly.

There were only two positive features of travelling with Ryanair amidst Covid-19 – the first being all customers over 12 are required to wear face masks at all times whilst on the plane. The exception to this is to eat and drink during which Michael O’Leary says passengers must employ “common sense” and lower their masks in order to eat or drink.

The second positive feature was that all purchases on the plane must be made with contactless methods. Despite this, on the flight back I was informed there were no hot drinks as they involve too much touching from the flight attendants.

Ryanair have not updated their “pre-boarding” policy in light of COVID-19 and in Edinburgh passengers continue to be herded into queues and then left to wait in corridors until the plane is ready. This surprised me as from working in the hub schools we were told that the doorway and waiting areas were the greatest risk – I’m no scientist but it is a point to consider. Bordeaux airport did not employ this policy, perhaps as they are a smaller airport. Interestingly, Ryanair no longer require your boarding pass when entering the plane to reduce contact.

I’m truly not sure why anything surprises me anymore with Ryanair, however you continue to have to pay for seats if you want your party to sit together. When trying to minimise the spread of covid this is especially surprising. I booked a seat with my boyfriend and found the third seat in our row full, despite there being a number of empty rows available. Unlike Easyjet and other airlines, Ryanair are not attempting to socially distance on their planes by keeping middle seats/extra seats empty.

One of the least attractive photos ever taken of me. At least the face masks help to cover up some of my 5am face.

One of the most frustrating parts of travelling with Ryanair was the complete lack of communication. The only emails I received were about their cabin bag policy which remains the same as always (despite advice that luggage should be checked where possible). Any Covid-19 specific information is left up to the customer to seek out. I had researched the French government requirements as well as Scotland and Britain’s requirements, however upon checking in Ryanair informed us we would need to present a form to the authorities in France. We were informed at Edinburgh Airport that e-version of this is acceptable, however this is not made clear anywhere on their website, and it turns out that it was not necessary anyway upon arriving in France. There is no information sent out regarding wearing face masks or other Covid precautions so it is important to do your research before leaving. It’s relevant to note that the country you are visiting may change their rules whilst they are there: France implemented the requirement to use face masks in all enclosed public spaces a couple of days after we arrived, so you need to ensure that you keep up to date with the laws even after arriving.

It is also important to read the fine print on travel insurance – I could only find one that provided any level of Covid cover (Trail Finders) however this only covered you if you specifically were asked to isolate and not if the whole country or region went back into lockdown; which sadly as many travellers to Spain are currently finding out, is not an unlikely change of events. As far as I am aware there is no insurance that will cover you for that.

As for the airports, this will vary greatly between them. Edinburgh was well run and even has information on their website about which shops and cafés are currently open – at the time we were there only WH Smiths and Krispy Kréme were open. In contrast, Bordeaux had terrible access to facilities (I had to walk for 10 minutes to find a bathroom to use), but had all shops and restaurants open.

I’m aware that this is not the most riveting of blogs, however with my blog I try to fill the gaps of information I wish that I had had. At the end of the day, every time you travel you assume risk. I hope that this blog has helped you to gauge the level of risk at the moment and to make a decision about travelling amidst the pandemic.

Don’t forget; if you’re not comfortable travelling abroad at the moment but would like some time away, our own economy could do with supporting. Why not check out my blog post on (in my humble opinion) the UK’s best road trip!

How To Be A Responsible Tourist

It’s such a stark example of hypocrisy; I spend my life either being a tourist, or counting down the days until I can be again, and yet in my own city and my own country I find myself grumbling about the tourists and their obnoxious behaviour. Anyone who’s been to Edinburgh during the Fringe Festival can understand my irritation – a 10 minute walk up the Royal Mile can quickly become half an hour, weaving in and out of tourists who have stopped dead in their tracks to photograph some stunning building or to look at a map. So what does it mean to travel responsibly? How can we satisfy our wanderlust without being that tourist?


Language and Culture

It will be unsurprising to many of you that language is on my mind. Before travelling to a new country, learn a few key phrases in the local language. If someone arrived to the UK and insisted on speaking to you in their native tongue we would consider it horribly rude. The locals will have greater respect for you and you may find a new love for the language – if nothing else it will be a useful tool at the markets.

Similarly, learn about the local culture. Adhere to their dress codes (I must admit, I find this one challenging as often it is the female body that is considered offensive; however it is important to respect the traditions of the country you are in) and their rules. For example, in Thai culture it is considered disrespectful to point at or turn your back to a buddha. Respect is mutual: your welcome in a country will be much warmer if you respect their culture.

Support the local economy

We’ve all been there: you’ve been travelling for a while so you miss your home comforts and the Starbucks on the corner is calling your name. However, in addition to be significantly more expensive and cutting into your trip budget; giving chain stores and restaurants your business only lines the pockets of some multi-millionare somewhere. Support the local economy wherever possible; staying at local guesthouses feeds money back into the community and has the added benefit of great local tips for restaurants and activities.

Consider your approach to bartering as well. It can be a huge surge in adrenaline when you get a brilliant bargain and walk away with two pairs of hareem pants for less than a pound, however consider a fair price. This will be significantly less than it is at home – noone is suggesting you pay £15 a pair but will that extra pound make a huge difference to you? In Bali for example, the minimum salary for a month is £126. To families on that salary an extra £1 will go a long way.

Single Use Plastics

This ones seems like common sense no? Say no to straws, plastic bags, bring a reusable bottle… but what does the reality actually look like? In much of Asia there isn’t the same culture around plastic as we have in the western hemisphere and it can be challenging to buy groceries that aren’t wrapped in miles of plastic. Pair that with the fact you can’t drink the tap water and it becomes a lot more complicated. Try asking before purchase for no plastic bag or straw, and check with your hostel if they have free drinking water. If not, try to buy large bottles of water to refill yours from.

There are also many opportunities to make a difference during your travels. Try getting involved with local clean up efforts – a great way to meet other people and to leave a positive trail behind you. Dive Into Travelling has an interesting post about her efforts joining in with #dailybeachclean during her time on Koh Tao. Read it here.

Transport

I would walk 500 miles… Consider your travel options and try to minimise flying as much as possible. It’s estimated that 2% of greenhouse gas emissions come from the aviation industry alone. While walking 500 miles isn’t a viable option for most people, taking a train or a bus has a significantly smaller carbon footprint than a plane or even taking a tuk tuk or taxi.

Where you can, try to walk or even rent a bike between landmarks. Kerry and I spent a (very sweaty) day cycling around the ruins of Anarudhapura in Sri Lanka and it’s one of the highlights of our trip. If the environmental benefit isn’t enough to convince you – try the financial cost. A bus from Luang Prabang (Laos) to Chang Mai (Thailand) cost us about £20 compared with over £100 to fly. In Sri Lanka we took 4-5 hour bus journeys for less than £2.

Animal Tourism

Animal tourism is one of the big moral dilemmas you will face while travelling, and can be more complex than it seems. We went to visit elephants in Thailand but put a lot of research into where we went. Some “no ride” sanctuaries cater to visitors in the morning while offering afternoon rides. One of the arguments in favour od these places is that as the laws in Thailand allow elephants to be owned, their owners will use them for worse means than tourists, such as logging. By having the tourist industry it allows their owners to profit from them without harming the animal.

Now where you stand on that is your own moral dilemma but please, please do the research. Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage in Sri Lanka is one of the main destinations for tourists and looks amazing on instagram, but further research showed that the elephants are chained in the middle of the river and unable to move, in addition to allegations that their handlers treat them unfairly. For me, it wasn’t worth the risk of animal maltreatment and we opted for glimpses of them out of bus windows instead.

Volunteering

Similarly to animal tourism, make sure you do your research. There are a huge number of amazing projects out there that do wonderous things for the local people, but be wary of scams. I’ve heard numerous reports of orphanages in Cambodia where the children have been taken from their parents with well-meaning tourists donating towards the upkeep of the orphanage and where do you think that money goes?

Equally consider your skills. If you are volunteering to build a well – do you have any construction skills? Or would you be better suited to teach English or help with beach clean ups? I was once named and shamed in a blog about “white saviourism” for volunteering in a refugee camp. As a fully qualified teacher with a few years’ experience under my belt this was null and void, but raised valid questions about how helpful we are being. Are the locals going to have to tear down your shoddy well and rebuild it once you have left?

Read: Introducing the Karen People about my time in Mae Rah Moe Refugee Camp

Get off the beaten path

Overtourism is an issue with many areas groaning under the weight of more tourists than local residents. In these instances the infrastructure isn’t there to support the demand for services. Bali is not the tropical paradise you see on instagram, instead of being left speechless by incredible nature I was appalled by the number of cars on the road. It took us 3 hours to go the 20km from the airport to our hostel. Instead, try to find some hidden gems. Stay overnight in areas that usually form part of a day trip – a highlight of my Bali trip was the week we spent on Nusa Penida enjoying the peace and quiet away from the bustle of millions of tourists on the mainland.

In summary, just be sound and do your research. How do you try to be a responsible tourist? Let me know in the comments what steps you take.

If you enjoyed this post, why not check out some of my destination blogs?

Pack It Up!

Since returning from my 10 week trip to South East Asia – my first proper backpacking trip! – I’ve been inundated with messages from friends planning similar trips. One of the messages I get time and time again (and I sent to all my backpacking friends before leaving!) is ‘HELP ME! How the hell do I pack for 3 months in a BACKPACK!’ Well, ladies and gentlemen, your prayers are answered, here lie the contents of my backpack. If you’re already bored, scroll on past the list for my top tips – hindsight is a wonderful thing.


Table of Contents

Ready...Steady...
Ready, set, go! Here is my backpack, fully packed and ready for a map to jump out and send me on an adventure. (Dora the Explorer anyone?)

I have an Osprey 55l in S/M. I’m 5′ 1 1/4″ (the quarter is highly important) and weigh about 50kg so I had to find a backpack the right size for me. I went for the largest possible to fit my frame. My recommendation? Go smaller. 40l is what can be taken as carry-on which will save you a lot if you’re taking flights.

Suits and Boots

  • 10 pairs of pants (I got dragged into my research and invested in moisture-wicking underwear to fend off the sweaty crotch syndrome often suffered in the humid climate of SEA… while I didn’t suffer this humiliation, neither did my travel buddy, who is less susceptible to peer pressure and did not invest.)
  • 1 bra, 2 sports bras and 2 bralettes (I can honestly say the bra maybe got worn once #freethenipple)
  • 3 pairs socks
  • 11 shirts (Way too many, I only wore 5 of these!)
    • 3 sports tops
    • 2 vest tops
    • 2 nice(r) strap tops for going out
    • 1 short sleeved blouse
    • 3 crop tops
    • 1 thick strapped linen shirt.
  • 2 lightweight jumpers to cover up
  • 1 sweater
  • 1 pair of exercise leggings
  • 1 pair of harem trousers (embrace them, you will soon be living in pyjamas)
  • 1 pair of denim shorts
  • 1 pair of sports shorts
  • 2 maxi skirts
  • dungarees
  • 2 bikinis
  • 2 pairs of pyjamas
  • flip flops
  • hiking sandals
  • trainers

Bits and Bobs

  • passport
  • microfibre travel towel
  • travel pillow
  • sleeping bag liner
  • chargers and adaptors (I packed EU, US and UK chargers, you can buy a universal one but I had these lying about)
  • bank card, and back-up bank card, and back-up back-up bank card
  • passport photos for visas
  • USD for visas
  • jewellery
  • hairbrush and hair tyes
  • diaries and pens
  • Kindle Fire (gotta have me my Netflix for those infernal 23-hour bus journeys)
  • pack of cards
  • dry bags (I’ll write more about these later)
  • waterproof cover for my backpack

The Powder Room

  • 2x 400ml Boots Once Factor 50 3hr Protect and Swim (This ginger needs her protection)
  • 2x 50% DEET bug spray
  • 2x deodorant
  • LUSH solid shampoo
  • Soap bar
  • Toothpaste, toothbrush
  • Cleanser and Make-up Remover
  • Basic make-up bag
  • Perfume
  • Moisturiser
  • Basic first aid kit – hand sanitiser, paracetamol, plasters, allergy tablets, rehydration salts and prescribed medication
  • wet wipes and toilet roll
  • small ziplock with washing powder for handwashing underwear.

I need all that…?

As you can see, I packed everything but the kitchen sink. I have always been known as a terrible packer, and recently turned up for a 6 day trip down to Birmingham for a friend’s wedding with the same backpack rammed full. However, this does mean I feel fully qualified to tell you what is worth bringing, and what just to leave behind.

  • My first tip is DRY BAGS. These were recommended to us, and I can honestly tell you they were a life-saver. Or at least a comfort saver. Why were these so great? Well, my faithful readers, you may have heard about the humidity in SEA. In the UK we do have 98% humidity but IT IS NOT THE SAME. We found that the air was so hot and damp that anything left out of the dry bags got damp and would not dry. The other handy thing about dry bags is they also double as those infamous packing cubes you’ve been reading about on other travel blogs, and when you pack them and squeeze out the air they’re like little vacuum packs. Having everything categorised makes packing up at the end of your stay much faster as even when you’ve pulled everything out in search of that dress that will look just perfect for your Instagram feed; you’ve only actually disturbed a small portion of your bag.
  • As for toiletries, if you’re fairly confident in your appearance, ditch the make-up. I dragged mine all around SEA for 10 weeks and hardly wore it; backpackers don’t glam up. I did, however, get my eyelashes dyed (ginger eyelashes make you look like an alien; it’s highly attractive). The same goes for jewellery, straighteners, hair dryers etc. That hair is gonna be a frizzball no matter what you do, so own it girl.
  • Solid shampoo, conditioner and soap were also a huge convenience. They take up next to no space, and no plastic means you’re doing good for the environment.
  • If you have sensitive skin like me, it’s an idea to bring your suncream etc out with you, but realistically you can get everything you need there and it is mainly the same brands. Dry skin sufferers, take moisturiser unless you enjoy bleaching your skin because these cultures hate a tan. You’ll be swapping your Dove Golden Glow for Pearly White.
  • Logistics. Not sexy but very important. I would definitely recommend bringing USD as it’s cheaper than paying for VISAs in local currency. Having passport photos ready also speeds up the process and avoids a cheeky unofficial fee from the guards.
  • My final tip is to take whatever you want to pack, and half it. Get your staples (denim shorts etc) and plan your outfits around that. Research where you’re going and pack appropriately for there – make sure you have cover-ups for going into temples.
...and so the adventure begins!
…and so the adventure begins! Kerry and I on the 5am bus to the airport on a surprisingly sunny day in Edinburgh.